OPTIMUM INITIAL DIGITAL CAMERA DEFAULT SETTINGS
Most settings for all digital cameras out of the factory, are good ones.
Having said this, it’s a good idea to look at settings to leave to the camera, and which would be better to adjust yourself.
Often on the top dial there are a set of “idiot modes” as well as the useful ones (Program, Shutter and Aperture Priority, and Manual). Actually these are not such idiot modes, if you look at the settings (shutter speeds, apertures and ISO) the camera chooses for each mode (usually portrait, speed, landscape and closeup) and understand why the camera chose them.
Unfortunately, compact cameras ususally have much harder menus either to navigate or understand (this is why I recommend either Canon or Nikon DSLRs to new students – though the Canon Powershot G10 is a beauty), and the worst ones – you know, cameras that look like a small silver cigarette case with a retracting lens) don’t even show the exposure settings (shutter speed, aperture and ISO – the essential ingredients to an exposure that you need to pay attention to).
You want to be able to pick up your camera and use it straight away, and take good pictures. There’s nothing more frustrating for you – and people you may want to photograph – to stand there, scratch your head and wonder where to start.
Below is where to start. Once you’re happy with the basic settings, go on to my ‘Digital Camera Tests” to fine-tune other settings to a point where the camera is a tool to use, and simply an extension of your instinct, and hand-eye coordination.
If you have any questions, drop me an email; or better yet, sign up to one of my London based photo workshops!
ISO: Set ‘400’ (or appropriate for the strength of light)
Choose the ISO setting appropriate to each different lighting condition. Since the exposure on a sunny day (for example) is 1/ISO (as a shutter speed) @ f16, 100 ISO is best for sunshine, since 1/100s is fine (generally the minimum hand held shutter speed you can use is 1/60s).
Here’s a rough guide to choosing the right ISO for different light conditions:
100: daylight / strong sunshine (watch those deep shadows!)
200: light cloud hazy sun
400: shadow, heavy cloud, overcast, some inside shots near window light
800: most indoors where there is low ambient light (usually tungsten, since this is normal household light)
1600: safe for all indoors, especially concerts, pubs, restaurants and night indoor events (buthigh ISO gives you noise)
NB: rule of thumb is: use the LOWEST ISO that will give you 1/60 shutter speed (unless you want blur)
SHOOTING MODE: (Outside with or without flash, or inside without flash) Set ‘P’ (Avoid ‘Auto’)
The only four choices to consider are Program (P), Shutter Priority (S or TV), Aperture Priority (A or AV, and manual (M). P is usually the best and quickest shooting mode, since the camera’s exposure meter will give you both the shutter speed and aperture (lhs and Rhys of your viewfinder) for an average exposure. Set an ISO high enough to use at least 1/60s to avoid camera shake..
WHITE BALANCE: Set ‘AWB’
This is what interprets the best colour (temperature) for each lighting condition. Choices (using symbols) are: Auto (AWB), Sun, Cloud, Shade (Overcast), Tungsten (Incandescent: household lighting), Florescent (Offices), Flash, K (degrees Kelvin) and Cust/Pre (Custom or Preset). AWB is ok for most situations, but not as accurate as the setting appropriate to the light condition you’re in.
EXPOSURE COMPENSATION (+/-): Set ‘0’
As your most useful editing tool, you will learn much about non-average ambient exposure settings by using this with your review image. If the image is too dark, hold the +/- button and move the mark to +. If too light, move the setting into -. Experiment how much: 2/3 to 1 stop is good. Taking more photos at this setting, your next pictures will be better. Remember to reset to the default of 0.
FLASH EXPOSURE COMPENSATION ( +/-): Set ‘-1’ or ‘-2’ (stops)
Do a flash test inside (shooting mode ‘S/TV’) with a person up to 6’, then further away. In shutter priority mode, set the shutter speed to allow the correct ambient exposure (speed will be < 1/60s), and set the flash exposure compensation either to -1 or -2, depending on distance. You may find that with indoor flash balanced well with a slow ambient exposure, setting the WB to flash () gives more accurate colour balance for the person, though this may not be accurate for the ambient light.
EXPOSURE METERING (Ambient Light): Set ‘Average’, ‘Matrix’ (Nikon) or ‘’ (Canon)
Set your exposure metering to enable your meter to read the light from the whole composition; this gives you the best chance of getting accurate exposures. Avoid spot or centre weighted metering.
AF (Auto focus) Point: Set ‘Single, Centre Spot’
The AF display points in your viewfinder are set in a pattern, and any one of these squares can be the focus point (lenses only focus in one place!). Setting the focus to Single (not Continuous) focus, and setting the middle AF point, allows you to set the focus in the middle of your composition and get both visual and audio focus confirmation (if ‘beep setting is on). ‘Auto’ causes the lens to focus on the nearest object to the camera not good) and Continuous disallows the beep.
AUTO FOCUS LOCK (AF/L): Set using Shutter button (separate from Auto Expose Lock (AE/L)
Use this (press shutter button halfway down) to lock ONLY the focus, on centre point with beep and visual focus confirmation (use AF settings above) and recompose your composition in your viewfinder. This action is separate from also locking your exposure (AE/L), which is done using the ‘snowflake’ button. Check to see if your camera’s default setting, separating these two, applies.
FILE SIZE / IMAGE SIZE: Set ‘Large’, ‘High’, ‘Best’, etc.
Always use the highest file size and image size for your camera. With Canon, be aware that you get the same pixel count by using Large with the step symbol as Large with the curve sign. If you shoot in Raw format, you need software to process the images (CS4 or Nikon/Canon View, etc).
PICTURE STYLE / PERAMETERS: Set ‘Neutral’ or ‘Faithful’ (Canon) or ‘0’ (Nikon)
These adjust the settings usually for sharpness, contrast, saturation and colour tone. It’s best to have all these set at 0, so you can change them afterwards from a neutral default setting.
AUTO ROTATE (vertical): Set ‘On’ for computer, ‘Off’ for the camera
The problem with your camera rotating the vertical images on the review screen is they appear half sized compared to horizontal shots. You can set auto rotate ‘on for computers but ‘off for camera.
SHOOTING MODE DRIVE: Set to ‘Single’ (unless shooting moving subjects or using bracketing)
Single shooting is better than ‘Mulit’ for card space and choosing decisive moments to shoot. If using ‘Multi’ shooting, use Continuous Focus / AI servo mode for moving subjects (no AF point).
BRACKETING: Set to ‘AEB’ (Canon) or ‘Bracket Set’ (Nikon), usually +/- 1 stop
Not all Nikons have bracketing. It’s good to bracket 3 shots when not sure of the right exposure or you don’t have time to readjust s/s and aperture settings. Set shooting order sequence to: – / 0 / +.
FORMATTING MEMORY CARD: Use ‘Format’ after downloading (and backing up) images
Download images with a card reader (not cable to camera) for any computer. Use Firewire 400 if your computer has a slot for this (x5 faster than USB). Don’t forget to backup all your data from computer to an external HD! Format card in the camera to zero out data and remove empty folders.
AUTO FOCUS: Use ‘M’ or ‘MF’ (instead of AF) for solid colour / tone subjects
AF will work in most light situations including night street scenes where there are streetlights. But AF doesn’t work pointed at any solid tone or colour object without texture or contrast. If focus is set to AF the camera won’t work; so in these situations, move focus to Manual (M or MF).
‘SHOOT (camera) WITHOUT CARD’: Use ‘Off’
This is only useful to have in the ‘On’ setting if you want to check or reset something on your camera when it doesn’t have a card in it. Otherwise, if you forget that you’ve got the card somewhere else, you might pick the camera up and start shooting, but the images won’t be recorded or saved to anything, since there is no internal memory in digital cameras.
EYEPIECE DIOPTER: Use centre mark (middle), or adjust for your eyesight
This is the tiny scroll wheel just above the eyepiece of your camera. Often it gets knocked off the right setting, and you seem not to be able to focus the lens, even though your pictures are fine. There is usually a thin shiny mark on the scroll wheel in the middle of the turn, which should be your default setting for 20/20 vision. But if means you could pick up the camera without your glasses (if you wear them) and quickly set the right focus for your eye, up to +/- two diopters.
© James Bartholomew
Email: james@jamesbartholomew.com
Photography Made Simple 
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